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8. Unique Designs for Artificial Trees

Artificial trees cannot compare with real Christmas trees in dignity or significance. They should be regarded as interesting fancies, or as decorative details in a complete Christmas picture. They may be created and used for special occasions, as for a children's party or a holiday dinner. In small homes or city apartments, where a real tree would be impractical, an artificial tree may serve as a symbol. It is better to have a tin tree, a wooden tree, a gumdrop or lollipop tree than no tree at all.

A simple artificial tree for flat surfaces was described in the preceding chapter. The trees we now consider stand alone, on tables or mantles or wide window sills. It would be difficult to supply clear instructions for making them without the help of pictures, so it is suggested that the reader glance first at Drawings 13, 14, 15, 16 and 21. Reference will be made below to individual drawings as each tree is discussed.

One of my favorites is the tin tree (Drawing 13). It is built on a wooden base about &i/2 inches in diameter. A dowel stick or slender wooden rod, 18 inches high, is used for the trunk of the tree. This trunk is held in position by driving a nail through the bottom of the base board into the dowel stick, a job best done in a bench vise, or by a handy man. The spiral (Drawing 13) consists of an inch-wide strip of tin, 56 inches long. A substitute for tin is the metal binding which is sold by the yard for fastening carpets or linoleum to the floor. It has neither the strength nor sparkle of tin but will serve the purpose. Force a hole through the end of the tin strip with a nail; then drive an ordinary tack through the hole to fasten it to the board, setting the strip at an angle. Coil this three times around the trunk and tack it to the top end. A 4½-inch tin star may then be tacked on the top of the tree.

This is the foundation of the tin tree. Now comes an opportunity to use the stubby, coarse pieces of evergreen usually discarded by the decorator. These are poked into the tin spiral. Fresh fruit, supported by the stiff stems, is mounded in among them. An apple may be used on one side, balanced by an orange on the other. Plums, lemons and grapes are suitable, and white onions tucked in, here and there, add brightness.

No. 13

An 18 inch dowel fastened to wooden base, 56 inches of inch wide tine, and star form the frame for the tin tree. Stubby pieces of evergreen hold fresh fruits in place.

After the fruits are in place, or during their placing, evergreen ends are worked in so that they extend beyond the tin spiral. (Drawing 13) This tree will last well for a week or more, depending on the soundness of the fruit and the room temperature. The tree should stand where it need not be moved, as the fruit is likely to slip if disturbed.

Children prefer the lollipop tree. (Drawing 14) This begins with a conical frame made of half-inch mesh wire. For an 18-inch tree a frame 12 inches high and 6 inches wide will be needed. After the frame has been carefully shaped, it can be tied together with small pieces of wire. For cutting the mesh wire, tin shears are best but an old pair of heavy scissors will do.

The frame is filled with wet sphagnum moss, well packed into the point. If the tree is to stand on a tray or plate, it will not be necessary to tie the moss at the bottom. A round red tray, extending well beyond the greens, makes an attractive colorful base.

Small pieces of mixed greens are inserted through the wire and into the moss. They should be fairly uniform in length in order to give the finished tree a good shape. Boxwood, yew and the blue-green retinospora (Chamae-cyparis pisifera squarrosa) offer pleasing variety. The blue-green lightens the darker foliage and adds much to the beauty of the tree.

Insert small round lollipops, clear-colored and wrapped in cellophane, into the tree. This can be done easily if 6-inch lengths of No. 18 wire are twisted to the ends of the lollipop sticks. Because the lollipops will be eaten something more must be added, perhaps small bunches of artificial holly berries. The top decoration may be berries, a lollipop, or both.

This solid decoration can be easily moved around on its tray. If you place it on the table as a centerpiece, balance it with large red candles, an inch and a half in diameter. These can be fastened to star-shaped glass holders by melting stubs of old candles in a can and pouring enough wax into the holders to give a firm red base.

The tree described looks well on a table set for ten or more. Smaller or larger trees, for other purposes, can be made in the same way with cones of different dimensions. Basic materials of the lollipop tree and of some others mentioned can be kept from year to year. Store away both cones and moss.

It is interesting to devise variations on the basic idea with small pine and spruce cones, or cones in graduated sizes from large ones at the bottom to tiny fir and hemlock cones at the top. These are wired, as described before, and the wires thrust through the mesh into the moss. Cone trees are more formal than lollipop trees. A circle of red Christmas balls around the bottom adds elegance. Small clusters of berries, such as firethorn (Pyracantha) may cover the tree completely, or other fruits may be wired and inserted among greens. The foundation of the tree is still wire mesh, but decorations vary.

No. 14

Half inch mesh galvanized wire forms the cone shaped frame filled with set sphagnum moss. Evergreens, cellophane wrapped lollipops and wired holly berries inserted in the moss decorate the tree. Effective on red tray.

The wooden tree takes more time but is well within the ability of an amateur carpenter. Finished, it stands 18 inches high, plus 4½ inches for the star. Side pieces of the triangle (as shown in Drawing 16, middle), are 1¾ inches wide, ¾ of an inch thick and 16 inches long. The bottom of the triangle is 2 inches wide, ¾ of an inch thick and 15 inches long. Corners are neatly mitred. The base of the tree is cut from a block of wood 3 inches thick, 3 inches high and 6 inches long. The triangular frame sits in this curved base, which adds grace to the tree. A simpler platform may be made by fastening a block to each side of the triangle, with another piece nailed on the bottom for the stand.

Thickness through the base allows space for a shallow container to hold water for the greens. A sardine can will do. A flower holder hidden by the can holds greens or decorations firmly in place. The entire tree should be given two coats of aluminum paint. Then it is decorated with greens, tiny red balls, red berries and bayberry. Red candles are fastened to the sides on pieces of tin tacked to the frame. As explained above, holes are made in the tin with a nail before tacking, since a tack is not strong enough to pierce tin. A little adhesive tape is wrapped around the tin candle holders and the candles are fastened on with drops of melted wax. Greens must be kept within the frame at a safe distance from the candle flames. This tree makes a handsome centerpiece if decorated similarly on both sides. If only one side is covered, it must be placed against a suitable background.

As a variation, the wooden tree may be dressed with white berries, silver balls and white candles or a blue and silver scheme devised with artificial materials. Sprays of marble-size Christmas balls in groups or used singly are arranged in the flower holder to make an attractive decoration. If the stems are not long enough, 12-inch lengths of wire may be added. Symmetry and stability are obtained by grading the balls from large ones at the bottom to small ones at the top. Bunches of artificial grapes composed of tiny Christmas balls may be worked in or artificial silver leaves tucked in around the base.

Blue candles are lovely placed at the sides of this tree. When they are lighted, the gleam is picked up and reflected by the ornaments on the tree.
On a wide mantel there may be space for other candles at each end. A striking effect can be attained by employing as a candle holder, a kitchen grater, the kind with a curved front of uniform holes and a flat, solid tin back. The candle is fastened in melted wax or modeling clay, and the grater placed over it. Bases may be partially hidden with greens and cones. (Drawing 17, bottom).

No. 15

Christmas balls on a wire stem form a pyramid. Heavy wires are stapled to wooden base; arms and scotch tape hold balls in position; tinsel adds sparkle and conceals tape; greens decorate the base.

A novel tree may be contrived with three tin funnels of graduated sizes. The largest is inverted over a glass, so that the rim of the funnel clears the table by an inch or two. A little Scotch tape or modeling clay will keep the funnel from slipping on the glass. Add the other two funnels, and then a Christmas tree-top ornament or tin star on a stick. Surround the tree with silvered magnolia leaves for an attractive modernistic design.

Other trees can be made of wire arms and Christmas balls. (Drawing 15) A base of convenient size is cut from the side of an orange crate and an inch hole made in the center. Two-foot lengths of No. 10 wire are stapled to the bottom of the board and then the base is given a coat of aluminum paint. The wires, or arms, are then bent out to make either a balanced or an informal pattern, as desired. Christmas balls in one or mixed colors are slid onto the wire arms and firmed with strips of Scotch tape. Tinsel may be coiled around the arms or bits of evergreens attached by wires. A star or pointed tree ornament finishes the top. These decorations are brilliant in large hallways or dark corners of the house. They are not difficult to store, since the balls may be removed from their hooks and returned to boxes.

Another type of ball tree may be quickly assembled on an upright piece of heavy wire inserted through the center of a suitable wooden base and firmly stapled. Then balls of graduated sizes and mixed colors are threaded on the heavy wire. (Drawing 15, top) The base may be concealed by silvered magnolia leaves or pieces of white pine. Commercial stands are now available in ten cent stores.

Silver or gold dust, purchased at art stores, is a substitute for paint. The dust flakes off, as paint does not, but some decorators prefer the subtler effect. To coat leaves or cones, paint them with thin glue. Then drop them into a paper bag of gold or silver dust. Close tightly and shake thoroughly. Allow the dust to settle for a few minutes before removing leaves and cones now ready for use. So treated they may adorn wreaths, sprays or garlands.

Half the end of an orange crate makes a good base for another artificial tree. No holes need be drilled for this one. A piece of wood 1 inch thick and 2 inches wide, of any desired height, is nailed perpendicularly to the broad side of the crate section, or to any other suitable piece of wood. The perpendicular piece serves as the trunk of the tree. To this graduated branches are stapled, first on one side, then on the other. The base board prevents the tree from pitching forward; it can be painted, or concealed by a covering of greens and a mound of Christmas balls. This type of tree can be easily and inexpensively made for mantels and tables, or for the decoration of halls and churches.

No. 16

Wire spiral 18 inches high wrapped with tinsel makes attractive tree. Wooden frame with candles may be decorated with greens, berries and balls arranged in holder with water, or artificial materials may be used.

Another novelty is the wire spiral tree. This is made by twisting four 18-inch lengths of No. 18 wire together to make a continuous piece. A small coil is formed at the base and 2 inches of straight wire left above the coil to serve as the tree's trunk. Then the spiral begins. Another 18-inch wire is fastened to the trunk and the spiral attached to its top. (Drawing 16, top).

Set the wire coil at the bottom of the tree into plaster of Paris, the base of most artificial trees, since it is cheap, easy to mix and adaptable. In a few minutes the plaster sets and becomes firm. To facilitate thorough drying, place it on something like a needle-point holder which will permit air to reach the bottom. After standing overnight the base is dry enough to place on fine furniture without danger of moisture affecting the wood.

The spiral tree that has its base, stands alone and is easy to decorate. There are many kinds of rope tinsel. Some are metallic, some made of tinfoil, some of cellophane. The spiral is wrapped with one of these and a star placed at the top.

Lightweight trees such as these are charming on mantels, in hallways and at the ends of long dinner tables with a heavier low decoration for centerpiece. The frame can be kept from year to year and given fresh adornment. It is amazing how different tinsels change the appearance of the tree. For variety, hang tiny balls from the spiral. The tinsel will keep them from slipping.

The base for an 18-inch tree requires several table-spoonfuls of plaster of Paris. Mix this with warm water in a tin can. Stir constantly to prevent quick hardening. The amount of water needed varies with the quality and brand of the plaster; some kinds take longer to harden than others. A little vinegar may be added to retard the setting of the plaster but warm water serves almost as well. Some experimenting should be done to determine right proportions.

Do not put the plaster into the water or it may crumble after it has set. When the right mixture is ready, pour it on brown paper, as if making hot cakes. Insert the wire of the tree at once and hold it for a few minutes until the plaster becomes firm. If the mixture is soft and runs away from the center, poke it back with a spoon so that the base is no more than 5 inches in diameter. It may be sprinkled with artificial snow while it is still wet, or painted with silver after it dries. The plaster of Paris base will be found useful for other decorations, not only for Christmas, but for anniversaries and festivities throughout the year.

Branches of huckleberry or the twiggy growth of the pepperidge tree (Nyssa sylvatica) can be arranged effectively in plaster. Tie the branches at the bottom with white string; colored string is likely to run in the plaster. Insert the branches and hold in place until the plaster sets. The branches may be whitened with a casein paint or with home-made snow (Chapter 5). This decoration looks well against a tilt-top table or other dark background.

The gumdrop tree is always popular, particularly with children, though I have never demonstrated it to adults who did not find it enchanting. This tree requires the branches of some thorny wood, such as hawthorn. Small gumdrops, more or less round, and slender spice drops are impaled on the thorns. As with huckleberry or pepperidge branches, the twigs are set in a plaster base and painted white with casein or quick-drying enamel. A glitter of snow on the wet paint adds a delicate sparkle. Candies are added when the paint is dry. Care should be taken in grouping the twigs to insure even distribution of thorns. On these depends the spacing of the candies. (Drawing 24).

A variation is the tree decorated with cranberries. These are effective on whitened branches with a few twigs of yew among them. First-size, quality berries should be selected. A coat of shellac will increase their luster and help preserve and hold them. (Drawing 21).

The confetti tree can be built of any branches, set in plaster and covered with white paint, glue or shellac. Confetti is then poured on. If it sticks unevenly, bad spots can be touched up. Miniatures of this tree are suitable for favors which children enjoy making.

Painted branches can be used in many ways. Tiny balls, bells, gummed paper stars and small bunches of cellophane straws can be fastened to them. The straws are most effective if their ends are cut on a slant to taper them. The ends may be dabbed with white paint and sprinkled with silver glitter, or wired artificial holly berries may be inserted in the end of each straw. A bend in the wire holds them in place.

Any thick branches of trees or shrubs can be made decorative by these methods. Good effects are possible with sumac (Rhus), the corky twigs of euonymus (Euonymus alatus) or sweet gum (Liquidambar styraciflua). Fasten them in a base, then swish them around in a thick mixture of clothes starch, sprinkle with artificial snow and allow to dry. A needle-point holder will serve as base. Artificial leaves or flowers can be added.

There are endless possibilities in this field of decoration. Artificial trees can be made for any color scheme or space. They are fascinating to contrive when the simple tricks of the trade are mastered.

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